A couple months ago, I ran across an article about wine-tasting that I promptly lost and have not been able to find again. But it made some interesting points about calibration, so—as part of the current series on measurement—I'll try to reproduce the gist of it here. Since I can't find the article I can't give you a footnote to substantiate the factual claims I make about wine; but I think you'll agree that they are mostly common sense.
We all know that there is a difference between Good Wine and Bad Wine, and also that Good Wine generally costs more. But this article suggests that we recognize at least three levels: Terrible Wine, Good-Enough Wine, and Great Wine. And the differences between these levels are revealing.As you climb from Terrible Wine to Good-Enough Wine, the price goes up by a bit but generally not by a lot. At the same time, the overall quality improves dramatically. Most wine drinkers can tell the difference between Terrible Wine and Good-Enough Wine.
But when you then climb from Good-Enough Wine to Great Wine, the variables shift. With this step the price may shoot up much higher. The wine gets a lot better too, but what is interesting is that not all wine-drinkers can taste the difference. More precisely, anyone can tell that the Great Wine doesn't taste quite the same as the Good-Enough wine. But unless you have a trained palate, you may not be able to distinguish the subtleties that make this bottle worth ten times as much as that bottle. Even so, those subtleties really do exist. But it generally takes a trained palate to recognize them.
What does this have to do with calibration? Everything.
In wine-tasting, your palate is the measuring instrument; the wine is the object to be measured; and its quality is the dimension in question. And the point is that the measuring instrument—your palate—has to be calibrated to meet the requirements of the measurement. But this calibration is of two kinds.
- On the one hand, you want to make sure no one is leaning on the scale; or in other words, that the measuring instrument reads zero when the inputs are (in fact) zero.
- On the other hand, you want to make sure that your measuring instrument is capable of the readings you need. If you need nanometer precision, don't use a yardstick. But if you are measuring carpet, don't use a nanomeasuring machine.
These principles apply exactly to the measurement of wine.
- The first requirement—that your palate should read zero when you aren't tasting anything—means that you shouldn't be distracted by other flavors. You can achieve this by taking a bite of something with a neutral flavor before sipping your wine.*
- The second requirement means that your palate has to be trained to match the use case you have in mind.
- If all you need is to find a table wine that will complement your hamburger or your Halloween candy,** you have to be able to tell the difference between Terrible Wine and Good-Enough Wine. And for that use case, a greater sensitivity might be wasted.
- On the other hand, if you are judging premium wines at the highest level—or if you are trying to re-create Alexandre Dumas's experience drinking Montrachet***—well, for that you need both sensitivity and training.
Once again, as always, what you need all depends on what you are trying to do.
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* Note, for example, the care with which the Comte de Rueil offered his guests olives between each course to cleanse their palates before tasting the wine, in Dorothy Sayers, "The Bibulous Business of a Matter of Taste," in Lord Peter (New York: Harper & Row, pp.154-167.)
** Yes, this is really a thing! See for example this blog post from October 2022.
*** Dumas once declared that Montrachet should be drunk only “on bended knee, with head bared.” It is supposed to be the best white wine in the world, or one of them.